Kota Kinabalu: The PKR Kota Kinabalu Division prepared 20kg of Nian Gao (rice cake) as part of an effort to keep the disappearing art of making the traditional Chinese New Year treat alive within the multicultural community.
The cakes were handmade under the guidance of Lam Yun Lam, 66, who taught members the authentic traditional method using banana leaf moulds.
Lam, a former tailor for over 50 years, said she stopped sewing due to deteriorating eyesight. Today, she earns a modest living selling flowers at the Donggongon Tamu for between RM5 and RM8.
She said she learned the craft from her mother at a young age, initially by observing before eventually making her own cakes after marriage.
“It is painstaking work. Even for this batch, it took us two days,” she said, adding that the most challenging part was shaping banana leaves into bowls which required ironing and delicate folding.
“If you use regular bowls, the cake will not be fragrant,” she explained.
According to Lam, the recipe itself is simple, using a one-to-one ratio of glutinous rice flour to caramelised sugar and water.
However, the labour-intensive process of preparing the moulds, kneading the mixture and steaming the cakes makes it physically demanding.
“In the past, we had to wait two days for the cake to harden. Now, a few hours in the freezer will do. But if you rush the process, the cake will turn out spotty and unappealing,” she said, adding that nian gao can last up to a year if stored in a freezer.
Lam noted that the market price for nian gao has increased to RM20 per kg, compared to RM10 during her younger days. While the cake is eaten throughout the year, demand peaks during the Chinese New Year period.
“The younger generation, including my own children, are not keen on eating nian gao, let alone learning how to make it. It is mostly older people and a small number of younger women who still consume and prepare it,” she said.
She believes the decline in interest is due to the cake’s straightforward sweet profile compared to modern desserts, which is why she reduces the sugar content in her own recipe.
“Generally, the cakes are similar everywhere, although some people add santan, palm sugar or pandan. However, those versions have a shorter shelf life,” she added.
Lam encouraged young people to look up recipes online and learn either to preserve their own heritage or to understand other cultures.
Hakka-style nian gao is typically round and plump, while the Hokkien version is longer and flatter.
PKR Kota Kinabalu Chief and Nominated Assemblywoman Grace Lee Li Mei said the handmade cakes would be distributed to the community during the division’s Chinese New Year open house.
“Food unites the community. During Hari Raya, we hope to do something similar. This is not a one-off programme — we are still exploring suitable ways to continue engaging with the community,” she said, adding that for the Kaamatan festival, the division plans to focus on traditional food such as hinava.
Grace said that traditionally, only the older generation purchased nian gao during Chinese New Year, recalling how her own mother used to make it before the practice stopped.
“That is why we want to continue the tradition and pass it on. It is encouraging to see teenagers, some as young as 19, showing interest in learning,” she said.
