BEAUFORT: For many families in Sabah, Aidilfitri would not feel complete without kelupis. The glutinous-rice delicacy, wrapped in fragrant “daun nyirik”, is a staple on Raya morning and a dish many households proudly serve to guests.
Often eaten with peanut sauce, rendang or other festive dishes, kelupis plays a role similar to ketupat or lemang in peninsular Malaysia.
What makes the dish special is that it is shared across Sabah’s diverse communities. While often linked to the Brunei community, kelupis is also widely prepared by the Bisaya, Kedayan and Dusun, making it a reflection of the state’s rich cultural heritage.
For Hamidah Ontong, kelupis has always been an essential part of her family’s Aidilfitri celebrations. “Every time Raya comes, there must be kelupis. Without it, the celebration feels incomplete,” the 39-year-old from Beaufort told Bernama.
Hamidah first learnt to make kelupis at 17 by helping her mother prepare the dish for family gatherings, before eventually mastering the craft herself.
She said preparing kelupis requires patience and precision. The process begins with glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk, after which the mixture is wrapped in nyirik leaves and tied individually.
Wrapping the parcels is the most time-consuming part of the process: on average, it takes six to seven hours to produce about 100 pieces. “It takes time because each one must be wrapped and tied carefully,” Hamidah explained.
After cooking, the kelupis can be stored in the freezer to ensure it lasts longer.
Slight variations exist among Sabah’s communities, although the basic ingredients – glutinous rice and coconut milk – remain the same.
Kelupis prepared by the Brunei community is typically richer in coconut milk and slightly denser, while versions from other groups may differ in texture, size, or the type of leaf used for wrapping.
Beyond Hari Raya, kelupis is also served at weddings, feasts, doa selamat gatherings, and other community celebrations.
