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Kota Kinabalu: Italian chef Domenico Piras has returned to Kota Kinabalu nearly 20 years after first working here, bringing with him decades of culinary expertise and a lasting connection to Sabah.

Originally from Milan and raised on the island of Sardinia, Piras previously worked at Sutera Harbour between 2005 and 2006. He is now back in the state for a short visit as part of a culinary programme hosted by Le Méridien Kota Kinabalu.

Piras is in Kota Kinabalu for 10 days and said he hopes his time here offers locals a chance to experience traditional Italian food made with the same values he learned in Sardinia and respect for ingredients, love for the craft, and pride in where you come from.

During his visit, he is preparing a selection of dishes from his home region, including fregola (a type of Sardinian pasta), seafood soup, braised lamb shank, and a tiramisu recipe passed down from his mentor, Italy’s first Michelin-starred chef, Manuel Ness.

“That recipe is from 1956. My mentor is now 84. Talking about him makes me emotional. He taught me discipline, sacrifice, and how to be responsible in the kitchen,” he told Daily Express on Saturday. 

Now based in Kuala Lumpur, Piras heads a well-known steakhouse and continues to champion traditional Italian cooking. 

He emphasised the importance of simplicity and authenticity in Italian cuisine, adding that some dishes today have become overly complicated.

“I immediately fell in love with Sabah when I first came here. The people are warm, polite, and it reminded me of home,” he added.

“Italian food is simple, five or six ingredients, no sugar, nothing confusing. You should know what you’re eating,” he said.

Piras, who began working at 16, stressed the importance of commitment and respect for young chefs aspiring to master traditional cuisines.

“The life in kitchen was never easy, It’s not just about cooking well. It’s about discipline and consistency and most importantly our heart for the food. That’s what it means to be a chef,” he said.

He also owns a house in Kinarut and was married to a Sabahan. When asked whether Sabah reminds him of Italy, he nodded.

“Yes. The way people smile at you on the street, and the friendly vibes, it feels familiar,” he said.