145-yr-old Kota Belud Tamu Sabah’s oldest

Published on: Sunday, August 13, 2023

By: Mabulmaddin Shaiddin

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Some of the dried fish traders busy arranging their stalls.

EVERY Sabah resident must know about Tamu Minggu in Kota Belud which is held every Sunday. Started by William Prettyman in 1878, this is the oldest Tamu in Sabah and its building was originally built via gotong-royong by the Dusun, Bajau and Iranun people.

According to historical records, the Tamu Minggu was intended to be a meeting ground for the people of Kota Belud and a place where they conduct business activities in the hope that the unity between the three ethnic groups will be closely interwoven and cohesive.

Since its opening 145 years ago, the Tamu Minggu operations have continued as usual. It starts from early morning until evening. A variety of daily necessities can be found here, such as agricultural products, fishing, handicrafts – you name it.

Some of the products that are in high demand.

But some don’t know that the Tamu Minggu is like a coin that has two sides. Tamu Minggu is not only conducted during the day on Sunday but its business activities are conducted 12 hours earlier, which is as soon as the sun sets on Saturday.

If you arrived late, you have to park a bit further from the Tamu ground because the open parking lot in front of the Tamu would be full of visitors’ vehicles, as well as hawkers’.

This is driven by the principle of “first come, first served” basis. Why not, for vendors who only sell on trucks, being able to park near the Tamu entrance is an advantage because that location is the main entrance and exit for visitors.

Almost all types of sales on Sunday afternoons can also be found at this time, for example, local sweets, agricultural and fishing products, travelling goods, fruit seeds, Bajau-made parang and many more.

Food stalls are also open as usual with their respective menu specialities. For sure, all stalls are filled with visitors to enjoy the food. From this scene, it can be concluded that Tamu Minggu at night has its advantages.

Some come to enjoy the menu at the stalls, because they say the delicacy of the food here is impossible to find anywhere else. Therefore, anyone who wants to taste the special Kota Belud cuisine have to come here themselves.

Logically, most visitors choose night time to come shopping because the weather at night is cooler than during the day, and the vegetables that are sold usually just arrived from Pintasan and Kayu Putih farms, as well as the fresh.

A seller of agricultural products from Kg Pintasan, Awang Masnan Mastan, 48, said the vegetables he brought were just picked from his farm at around 3pm. After being graded by his wife, he took them to the Tamu to sell.

Awang Masnan with some of his fellow traders.

“Maybe tonight my sales will be over, God willing. The supplies for tomorrow will be brought here by my wife tomorrow morning. I will spend the night here because tomorrow morning, too, I need to buy highland vegetables from the wholesaler. So, there has to be some sacrifice,” he said, smiling.

Awang Masnan, who has been selling at the Tamu for two years, expressed his gratitude for being able to earn enough income to support his family. He said buying and selling activities at night is a good way to improve the economy.

Asked about the safety of the sellers who spend the night at the Tamu ground, Awang Masnan praised the Kota Belud District Council (MDKB) who constantly monitor the area apart from the security forces who patrol the area.

“There is nothing to fear. If it rains, we won’t get wet because we take shelter in the permanent stalls that have been built here over the past years. In short, the Government provided all the facilities for us, so we have to take advantage of it.

“Before this, I worked in Singapore for a long time. But people say, it rains gold in other people’s land, rains hail in one’s own country, better yet. So I switched direction to this field. Our Prophet has decreed that nine-tenths of the wealth is from business results,” he said.

Another seller from Kg Batu 5, Kesapang, Laisah Likup, 48, said doing business at night has its advantages. She said the buyers did not ask much about the agricultural products.

Trader Laisah Likup from Kg Kesapang.

“Perhaps they know that almost all agricultural and fishing products here are of quality. Vegetables are directly supplied by the farmers themselves and fresh fish are usually brought in from the nearest fishing pier such as from Kuala Abai and Baru-Baru,” she said.

Unlike other business friends, Laisah does not spend the night at the Tamu ground because she has many commitments at home. However, she will still be at the Tamu as early as 5am the next morning to do wholesale on the highland vegetables brought by suppliers from Kundasang and Ranau.

Laisah said a barter trade system is still practised at the Tamu until now. She often exchanged goods with dried fish sellers or cake sellers for the same value. She said there were times when she got more than expected.

“I see this as a catalyst for unity, even though the new generation sees this system as outdated. By exchanging goods, we will become close acquaintances. They will look for me if I don’t come to do business, and vice versa,” she said.

The Tamu Minggu is only held on Saturday night to welcome the arrival of Sunday. The site has remained in Kg Siasai Semio since it started 145 years ago.