Know Sabah better before you advise our chefs, Wan

Published on: Sunday, June 11, 2023

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In an Instagram post, the celebrity chef noted that around 90% of the dishes he ate, from one restaurant to another and even in the hotel where he stayed, were “all the same dishes”.

I REFER to Chef Wan’s observations about Sabah’s culinary offerings during his recent visit to Tawau. In an Instagram post, the celebrity chef noted that around 90% of the dishes he ate, from one restaurant to another and even in the hotel where he stayed, were “all the same dishes”.

He then remarked that chefs in Sabah “need more exposure in Malaysian cuisine” than just “Chinese Sabahan dishes”. It is unfortunate that Chef Wan did not have the opportunity to taste and savour the diverse gastronomy that Sabah is known for, especially among its own ethnic communities.

One must understand that the population of Sabah comprises different indigenous groups, each with their own traditions, culture, language, and distinctive gastronomy.

Simply put, the culinary style of Sabahans is not homogeneous. Influenced by their surrounding environment and connection to nature, each ethnic group has unique preparations and rich flavours, often using wild ingredients that are not found everywhere.

Driven by cultural kinship, their culinary traditions also share similarities with those of neighbouring countries, namely the Philippines, Brunei and Indonesia.

Most of these cuisines are limited to people of the same ethnic groups and have yet to become mainstream. In contrast, in Peninsular Malaysia, the cuisines of the three major racial groups have gained popularity and are enjoyed by people of all backgrounds.

For example, nasi lemak, chapati and char kuey teow are accepted as Malaysian dishes despite their origins, and are popular nationwide.

In Sabah, the dishes popular among the various ethnic groups include linopot, hinava, ambuyat, latok, bosou, tiyula itum, bambangan, nasi subut, putu, barobbo, nasi kuning and ayam likku.

Although some of them are readily available in many local eateries, they have yet to become mainstream food that appeal to the masses in terms of demand. It’s also worth noting that although most Sabahans are acquainted with these dishes, their consumption is not widespread and is usually confined to the ethnic groups associated with them.

In the 1970s and 80s, Sabahans were not accustomed to many dishes that originated from the peninsula. Roti canai and nasi lemak were not considered main dishes for breakfast. Neither were mamak and Thai food.

However, due to migration and regional influences, these dishes have gradually become popular choices for Sabahans. Getting widespread recognition for the diverse ethnic gastronomy in Sabah will require both time and financial investment.

Various parties in Sabah, including tourism bodies, hoteliers, NGOs and cultural associations, could collaborate to find better and effective approaches to promote their cuisines.

VVSUP

- The views expressed here are the views of the writer and do not necessarily reflect those of the Daily Express.

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