Cooking for royalty for 27 years
Published on: Friday, December 09, 2016
Alor Setar: This writer was greeted by a delicious aroma when she was about to set foot into Dewan Biru at Istana Anak Bukit. Upon entering the hall, the writer found the mouthwatering scent came from an impressive spread of traditional and modern dishes, arranged beautifully on a table. A tall man warmly greeted the writer and her peer from Radio Televisyen Malaysia (RTM) as they approached the hall.
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He introduced himself as Anis Arzuwar Abdul Rahman, a chef who has been serving at Istana Anak Bukit, Alor Setar for 27 years.Born in Kampung Alor Merah, Alor Setar, the 50-year-old said that he first tried his luck at the coveted position just after turning 23.Without any formal training in the field, Anis Arzuwar scored himself an audition at the palace where the Kedah Sultan Tuanku Abdul Halim and his family resided. He could barely sleep the night before.
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"Imagine having to cook before the late Tuanku Sultanah Bahiyah Tuanku Abdul Rahman who had asked me to prepare fried rice and 'ayam ros' (chicken with sauce made from turmeric and tomatoes). "Fortunately, when Tuanku Bahiyah tasted my cooking, she found herself keen on it," he recounted.
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So on Nov 2, 1989, Anis Arzuwar was employed by the palace as a cook. He considered himself to be extremely fortunate to be given such a privilege at a young age."I learned new things every day from the more experienced cooks. I was also sent to attend training on food preparation and other courses related to my vocation," he said.He admitted that things were rather awkward at first as he had yet to learn the protocols and etiquettes of working in the palace and communicating with royalty, among others.However, he still had fond and vivid memories of his early days at the palace. He remembered that on his first day on the job, he had prepared for Tuanku Abdul Halim and members of his family a feast of gulai siam (Thai gravy), kari siam (Thai curry), gulai ikan kering (salted fish gravy), ikan bakar (grilled fish), daging bakar (grilled meat) and cheesecake. As he related his experience to the writer, his eyes glanced towards the array of dishes spread before him.He said that many of them were favourites of Tuanku Abdul Halim.Among the dishes were 'nasi ulam'(mixed herb rice) served with sayur keladi, beef tongue stew, ayam golek, chicken pie, traditional kuih and desserts like 'kanji diraja', 'cucur badak', 'kuih Qashidah' and wajik (made from steamed glutinous rice). "This menu is often chosen by Tuanku Abdul Halim to be served during feasts and celebrations, or when he returns from Istana Negara. "Meals that are served to the Sultan is usually served on a special plate that is nearly 50 years old, belonging to the late Tuanku Bahiyah. The plate is handled and kept with extreme care," he said. The nasi ulam, he explained, was a must-have menu for every day during the fasting month. The ulam (traditional salads and herbs) served would comprise 30 kinds, all obtained from the palace garden. "We always hear of people saying that "Mee Abu" and popiah (spring rolls) being his favourite foods, but those are the foods he likes when dining out. In the palace, these are his favourites," said Anis, gesturing towards the spread. Anis said although Tuanku Abdul Halim was not fussy about food, he was particular about eating times. "Breakfast would be served at 8.00am, the noon feast at 1.00pm and dinner at 8.00pm sharp. If he wanted supper, he would take it at 10pm and it would comprise sweet fruits like ciku and grapes. "If he liked a dish, he would take extra servings and if he did not like it, he would not take much. He was not fussy," said Anis.Anis, along with three assistants, would ensure the best food is served."We have a special supplier for raw ingredients such as vegetables, beef and chicken," he said.Anis said he owed the 27 years of his career to a deep-seated interest in cooking, patience and high discipline.He believed there was still more to learn especially in food preparation. He viewed every day at the palace as a learning process.His job also came with traveling perks, as he would be brought along on official trips.Stay up-to-date by following Daily Express’s Telegram channel.
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